Fashion and the Museum

I've been to numerous fashion-dedicated exhibitions in San Francisco and New York museums and have wavered in my opinions on the place for fashion in museums. This article from February's ARTnews really sheds some light into the ever mingling world of fashion and museum exhibitions. Although this article looks long, it is thorough and includes the gamut of museums from large New York institutions to smaller university museums' fashion exhibitions. 


A number of fashion and museum authorities are quoted and overall give the opinion of being pro-fashion for exhibitions in museums. However, the article does bring up the underlying and always present rule that not-for-profit institutions can not take monetary support or sponsorship from designers for these blockbuster exhibitions, as that would turn the show into an advertising campaign for the designer. This topic is addressed by Dan Monroe, President of the Association of Art Museum Directors, in a clear cut manner, that museums can not and must not teeter that line and loose control of the exhibition at their institution to the design house. 


I do think it is a wonderful treat for viewers to see these beautiful, haute couture pieces in a way that they can be appreciated for their beauty and craftsmanship. Most people will ever wear or see an exquisitely embroidered 1940's bolero by Balenciaga or view Yves St. Laurent's cocktail dress Tribute to Piet Mondrian, without viewing them in a museum setting. When done correctly, a museum can also provide a history lesson to viewers through the clothes, as designers take influences from the environment and culture that surrounds them. 


Please take the time to read this article and develop your own opinion on his matter as I know we will be seeing more and more fashion exhibitions in museums worldwide. 

Art in Advertising

The glorious Diane von Furstenberg has reached new artistic heights in her recent ad campaign for her Spring 2012 line. Taking a cue from Surrealism, von Furstenberg had her models situated in a vast, desert-like plane with dynamic juxtapositions between the atmosphere and the architectural accessories. 

The mirrored faces of the models brings a reflective nature to the ad's, forcing the viewer to see herself in this place, in these clothes. I love this spread and am so glad to see designers taking a truly artistic approach to showcasing their clothes, after all they are a work of art in their own right. 

images courtesy of DVF

Mixing High Fashion with Art Masterpieces

Taking a hint from the art world, sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte, found inspiration in some famous works by Vincent Van Gogh: Starry Night and his Sunflower series, for their Spring 2012 line. 

 

Sunflowers

1888

Oil on canvas

 

Effortlessly beautiful, the transition of the picture from canvas to dress is amazing. Printed on the feminine fabrics with their whimsical cuts, these images make an entirely new piece of art. The designs keep right in-line with the Rodarte esthetic and I am glad to see they used the multiple versions of Sunflowers. Kate and Laura even took some creative license to accent a dress with a “starry night” border. Overall these dresses, as with the rest of the line, are wonderfully beautiful and eye-catching, but retain their wear-ability.

 

The Starry Night

1889

Oil on canvas

 

all rodarte images via vogue

Cubism and Fashion

I'm going to a weeding this weekend and am SO excited to wear a new dress that I bought recently. I had been fawning over it for a while and thankfully had the patience to wait because it eventually went on sale!

Dress: CLASSIQUE

I haven't seen a dress like this before, (save maybe an ice-skater's costume but then it is usually be-dazzled to the extreme) and I found myself more and more drawn to the dress as I kept going online and looking at it.

Suddenly I realized why I loved it so much: not just because of the vibrant colors and fun shape, but the pattern is similar to some of my favorite and most well-known Cubist paintings!

Whether the designer was inspired by these artists or not, looking at these paintings I see many similarities with the bold, dark lines, geometric patterns and shapes. Even the top of the dress with the angular hem and tiered waist form bold, solid lines.

Although the dress isn't (or doesn't seem to be) a full pattern that has been deconstructed like a Cubist painting, similar design principles apply and I love the visual effect. I like to think I will be wearing a little piece of art this weekend, even if I'm the only one who makes the connection!

Man with a Guitar

Georges Braque, French

1911-1912

Oil on canvas

Samovar

Kazimir Malevich

1913

Oil on canvas

Ma Jolie

Pablo Picasso

1911-12

Oil on canvas

Road near L'Estaque

Georges Braque

1908

Oil on canvas

Balenciaga at the de Young Museum

Visiting the Balenciaga and Spain exhibition at the De Young Museum is like taking a cultural trip through time. Visitors are shown the dynamic play between a rather reserved Spanish culture and the innovative and dramatic designs of Cristóbal Balenciaga. The haute couture clothing, works of art by their own rights, showcase the genius of Balenciaga, and how he used the social and cultural currents in Spanish life to inspire and influence his designs. 

Balenciaga found inspiration in the fantastical matador costumes, dramatic flamenco dancer dresses, common fishermen garb, religious figures and works of art that surrounded him as a young man in Spain. The 120 piece exhibition has been gathered from private collectors and the De Young museum's own collection. 

Curated by Hamish Bowles, the European Editor at Large for Vogue, the exhibition is on display from March 26, 2011 - July 4, 2011. Personally, I have seen numerous fashion exhibitions at the De Young and think the Balenciaga is the best show by far. Not only are Balenciaga's designs exceptional, but the magnificent display and historical context that accompany the pieces provide a panoramic view of this fascinating period in history. 

via

Geometric Connections

Debuting her first collection in Fall 2009, Londoner Mary Katrantzou found inspiration in vintage perfume bottles and has been continually developing that aesthetic into bold, geometrically patterned dresses. I love finding designers who bring something new to the metaphorical fashion table and Mary accomplishes just that. Her designs and patterns are industrial with their hard lines, mirrored images and straight silhouettes, while always retaining a feminine touch though lace accents, detailed patterns and precise cutouts, allowing for the slight glimpse of a shoulder or thigh.

(images compiled via)

(all photo credits to Storm Thorgerson)

While admiring her runway shows my mind kept running back to an image made iconic by the English group Pink Floyd. The image was designed by graphic artist Storm Thorgerson and his studio, Hipgnosis, in 1996 to promote Pink Floyd’s “Back Catalog.” He came up with the idea through collaboration with the band who wanted play on the idea of the “back” catalog, while reminding loyal fans of the famous record covers, many of which were also designed by Thorgerson. The rich coloring, industrial scenes and manipulated geometric shapes all reminded me of Ketrantzou’s dynamic frocks and makes me wonder if she too is a loyal admirer of her countrymen’s psychedelic rock and the spellbinding effect these images have had on fans over the decades. 

Old and New - When Art Meets Fashion

I consider style an art- working different pieces together in a way to harmonize an overall look can be difficult. Using art as stylistic inspiration can run the gauntlet - from Yves St. Laurent's innovative "Mondiran" dress to a kitschy Edvard Munch "The Scream" tee-shirt (although I love the painting, I am glad I have never actually seen someone wearing this shirt...)

Being my first blog post, I wanted to give an example of how art and fashion can combine to create a true, unique style. And while some people look at a Mondrian or Munch and say "That is art?" there is no denying the skill and beauty of Dr. John Robert Thornton's engravings from the 18th century.

Tulips

Dr. John Robert Thornton (c.1765-1832)
Hand-colored engraving from the Temple of Flora

London: 1799-1807

Dr. Thornton brought together the finest flower painters throughout Europe to create his unsurpassed masterpiece, The Temple of Flora or Garden of Nature. These dramatic, highly stylized engravings were the first to include a full, lush backgrounds laden with symbols and allegories.

via

Designer Stella McCartney must have seen the historical importance as well as aesthetic qualities of these engravings as she decided to incorporate them into her Spring 2011 line. With her astute sense of cut and shape, she not only has designed dynamic dresses and tops, but has bridged the gap of time, bringing an English physicians fantastical engravings to contemporary fashion and runway.